Steering Wheel Shaking? Here's What It Means and What to Fix

Few things make you grip the wheel tighter than feeling it shake in your hands while you are driving. A shaking or vibrating steering wheel is one of the most common complaints we hear at AutoBlast, and for good reason — it is unsettling, it usually gets worse over time, and it can mean anything from a cheap fix to a more involved repair depending on the root cause.

The good news is that steering wheel vibration almost always follows a pattern that tells you exactly where the problem is. When the shaking happens — at highway speed, during braking, at low speed, at idle, or constantly — narrows the list of possible causes dramatically. This guide covers every common cause of a shaking steering wheel, organized by when you feel it, what each repair costs, whether it is safe to keep driving, and how NJ road conditions make these problems more common than they should be.

## Shaking at Highway Speed (50+ MPH)

If your steering wheel is smooth at low speeds but starts shaking once you hit 50, 60, or 70 miles per hour, the problem is almost always related to your wheels and tires. The faster you go, the more any imbalance or irregularity in the wheel assembly amplifies into noticeable vibration.

### Unbalanced Tires — The Most Common Cause

This is the single most frequent reason steering wheels shake at highway speed, and it is also the cheapest to fix. Every tire and wheel combination has slight weight variations. When a tire is mounted on a wheel, a technician uses a balancing machine to identify the heavy spots and attaches small counterweights to bring the assembly into perfect balance. Over time, those weights can fall off, the tire can wear unevenly, or a new tire can be mounted without being properly balanced.

When a wheel is out of balance by even a fraction of an ounce, it creates a wobble that you cannot see at low speed but becomes a pronounced vibration at highway speed. The vibration typically starts around 50 to 55 mph and gets worse as you go faster. It usually comes through the steering wheel most noticeably but can also be felt in the seat and floorboard.

Cost to fix: $40 to $80 for all four tires. Tire balancing is one of the most affordable automotive services available. Most shops charge $10 to $20 per tire. Some tire shops include free lifetime balancing when you purchase tires from them. If your steering wheel is shaking at highway speed and you have not had your tires balanced recently, start here — there is a good chance this solves it.

At AutoBlast, we balance tires as part of our tire service and can usually get you in and out in under an hour.

### Warped Brake Rotors

Brake rotors are the large metal discs that your brake pads clamp down on to slow the vehicle. They are precision-machined to be perfectly flat, but over time they can develop slight warping from heat, aggressive braking, or uneven pad deposits. A warped rotor is not perfectly flat anymore, so as the wheel spins at highway speed, the pad rides over the uneven surface and transmits that irregularity through the steering components as a vibration.

What makes rotor-related shaking distinct from tire balance issues is that it often gets worse or more noticeable when you lightly apply the brakes at highway speed. You might feel the steering wheel shimmy even without braking, but touching the brake pedal makes it significantly more pronounced.

Cost to fix: $200 to $500 per axle. This includes new rotors and brake pads. Sometimes rotors can be resurfaced (machined flat again) for less, but modern rotors are thinner than they used to be and resurfacing often leaves them below minimum thickness. Replacing the rotors and pads together is the more reliable repair. Front axle rotor and pad replacement typically costs $250 to $400 at an independent shop like ours, while dealerships charge $400 to $600+.

### Tire Defects and Separated Belts

Inside every tire is a series of steel belts that give the tire its structure and shape. Over time — especially on older tires or tires that have been run underinflated — these belts can separate or shift. A tire with a separated belt develops a bump or flat spot that causes a rhythmic vibration at speed. You might also notice the tire has a visible bulge on the sidewall or tread surface.

A belt separation is not something that can be repaired. The tire needs to be replaced. The vibration from a separated belt typically feels different from an imbalance — it is more of a rhythmic thumping than a smooth shake, and it does not go away with balancing.

Cost to fix: $100 to $250 per tire depending on the tire size and brand. If only one tire has a belt separation, you should ideally replace it with a matching tire on the same axle. If the tires are old enough that one has a belt separation, the others may not be far behind, and replacing all four is often the smart move.

## Shaking When Braking

If your steering wheel is perfectly smooth during normal driving but shakes or pulsates specifically when you press the brake pedal, the problem is in your braking system — almost without exception.

### Warped Brake Rotors — The Number One Cause

Warped rotors are by far the most common cause of steering wheel vibration during braking. When you press the brake pedal, the calipers squeeze the brake pads against the rotors. If the rotor surface is not perfectly flat, the pad rides over the high spots and low spots, creating a pulsation that travels through the steering knuckle, tie rods, and steering column directly to the steering wheel.

The shake is usually proportional to how hard you brake. Light braking at low speed might produce a subtle shimmy. Hard braking from highway speed can produce violent shaking that makes the steering wheel oscillate visibly in your hands. Some drivers also feel a pulsation in the brake pedal itself — the pedal pushes back rhythmically against your foot.

What causes rotors to warp: The most common cause is heat. Repeated hard braking — especially coming off a highway exit, braking down a long hill, or stop-and-go driving with heavy brake use — heats the rotors to extremely high temperatures. If the rotor cools unevenly (for example, if you come to a stop and the caliper pad sits against one spot on the hot rotor), that spot can develop a hard deposit or slight distortion. Over thousands of braking cycles, these small imperfections accumulate into measurable warping.

Other causes include driving through deep water after heavy braking (thermal shock from sudden cooling), overtightened lug nuts that distort the rotor hub surface, cheap or low-quality rotors that warp more easily, and brake pad material that deposits unevenly on the rotor surface.

Cost to fix: $200 to $500 per axle for new rotors and pads. Front brakes are more likely to cause steering wheel vibration since the front brakes connect directly to the steering system. If only the rear rotors are warped, you might feel the vibration more in the brake pedal and seat than in the steering wheel.

### Worn Brake Pads

Severely worn brake pads can also contribute to vibration during braking, although they are usually a secondary factor rather than the primary cause. When pads wear down unevenly — one side thicker than the other, or the inner pad wearing faster than the outer — the braking force is applied unevenly across the rotor surface. This uneven contact creates vibration.

Brake pads that have worn down to the metal backing plate are an entirely different problem. At that point, you are hearing grinding and feeling roughness, not the rhythmic pulsation of warped rotors. If you hear grinding when braking, the pads are gone and the metal backing is destroying your rotors. Stop driving and get the brakes replaced immediately.

Cost to fix: $150 to $350 per axle for pad replacement alone. In practice, if the pads are worn enough to cause vibration, the rotors usually need attention too, so expect to spend $250 to $500 per axle for pads and rotors together.

### Sticking Brake Caliper

A less common but more serious cause of brake-related vibration is a sticking caliper. The caliper houses the brake pads and uses a piston to press them against the rotor. If the caliper piston seizes or the caliper slides stick due to corrosion, the brake pad may not fully release from the rotor after you lift your foot off the brake pedal. This creates constant friction on one side, generates heat, warps the rotor, and causes vibration.

Signs of a sticking caliper include the vehicle pulling to one side during braking, a burning smell after driving, one wheel being noticeably hotter than the others, and uneven brake pad wear (one pad significantly thinner than the others).

Cost to fix: $300 to $800 per caliper including the caliper, pads, rotors, and labor. A sticking caliper damages the pads and rotor on that corner, so all three components usually need to be replaced together.

## Shaking at Low Speed (Under 30 MPH)

Vibrations that are noticeable at low speed point to problems that are more severe or closer to the steering system itself. At low speed, a minor imbalance does not generate enough force to shake the wheel — so if you feel it at 20 or 30 mph, something is significantly off.

### Damaged Tire or Flat Spot

A tire with visible damage — a bulge in the sidewall, a chunk missing from the tread, or a flat spot from sitting in one position for too long — can cause vibration at any speed, including low speed. Flat spots are common on vehicles that sit parked for extended periods, especially in cold weather when the tire rubber hardens in the shape of the contact patch. These flat spots sometimes work themselves out after a few miles of driving as the tire warms up, but permanent flat spots require tire replacement.

Sidewall bulges are caused by impact damage — hitting a pothole, curb, or debris hard enough to break the internal structure of the tire. A bulging tire is a blowout risk and should be replaced immediately regardless of whether it is causing vibration.

Cost to fix: $100 to $250 per tire for replacement. There is no repair for internal tire damage — the tire needs to be replaced.

### Bent Rim

A bent wheel rim is a very common cause of low-speed vibration, especially here in New Jersey where potholes are a way of life. When a rim bends, the tire mounted on it cannot spin in a true circle anymore. Even a small bend creates a wobble that is felt through the steering wheel. Unlike a tire balance issue that mainly shows up at higher speeds, a bent rim can produce vibration at any speed because the physical shape of the wheel is distorted.

You can sometimes see a bent rim by looking at the wheel from the front of the vehicle and spinning it — the rim will wobble visibly side to side or up and down. But many bends are subtle enough that they can only be detected on a wheel balancing machine or by a trained technician.

Cost to fix: $100 to $400 per wheel. Steel wheels can often be straightened for $75 to $150 per wheel. Alloy wheels can sometimes be straightened by a specialty wheel repair shop for $100 to $250, but if the bend is severe or on the outer lip, replacement is safer. A new aftermarket alloy wheel typically costs $150 to $400 depending on size and style. OEM replacement wheels from the dealer can run $200 to $600+.

### Bad CV Joint

If the vibration or shaking gets worse when you are turning — especially at low speed during tight turns — a worn or failing CV (constant velocity) joint is a strong possibility. CV joints are part of the axle assembly on front-wheel-drive and all-wheel-drive vehicles. They allow the axle to transmit power to the wheels while accommodating the up-and-down motion of the suspension and the left-right motion of steering.

Each CV joint is protected by a rubber boot filled with grease. When the boot cracks or tears (common from age, road debris, or — you guessed it — potholes), the grease leaks out and dirt gets in. The joint wears rapidly without lubrication and starts clicking, vibrating, or grinding — usually most noticeable during turns.

Cost to fix: $250 to $600 per axle for a CV axle replacement. In most cases, it is more cost-effective to replace the entire CV axle assembly (which includes both inner and outer CV joints) rather than replacing just the joint or boot. Parts run $100 to $300 and labor is typically 1 to 2 hours.

## Shaking at Idle (Engine Running, Vehicle Stopped)

If you feel vibration in the steering wheel, dashboard, or throughout the vehicle while the engine is running but the car is stopped — at a red light, in the drive-through, sitting in park — the problem is not in the wheels or brakes. It is in the engine or the engine mounting system.

### Engine Misfire

A misfiring engine does not fire all of its cylinders evenly, which creates an imbalance in the engine's rotational force. That imbalance transmits through the engine mounts, through the chassis, and into the steering column. You may feel a roughness or shudder at idle that smooths out somewhat at higher RPMs, or you may feel it constantly.

Common causes of engine misfire include worn or fouled spark plugs, failing ignition coils, clogged fuel injectors, vacuum leaks, and low compression in one or more cylinders. A misfire almost always triggers the check engine light, and the diagnostic trouble code will usually identify which cylinder is misfiring.

Cost to fix: $100 to $500+ depending on the cause. Spark plug replacement is $100 to $250 for most vehicles. Ignition coil replacement runs $150 to $350. Fuel injector cleaning or replacement costs $200 to $500. More serious mechanical issues like low compression can be significantly more expensive.

### Worn Motor Mounts

Motor mounts (also called engine mounts) are the rubber and metal brackets that attach your engine and transmission to the vehicle's frame. Their job is to hold the engine in place while absorbing the vibration that every internal combustion engine produces. When motor mounts wear out — the rubber deteriorates, cracks, or separates — they stop absorbing that vibration, and you feel it everywhere.

A vehicle with worn motor mounts will vibrate more at idle because there is no road noise or wind noise to mask it. You might notice the vibration is worse when the AC is running (because the AC compressor adds load to the engine) or when you shift from park to drive (because the engine torques against the mounts). In severe cases, you can actually see the engine move excessively when someone revs it while you watch from outside.

Cost to fix: $200 to $600 per mount including parts and labor. Most vehicles have three to four engine and transmission mounts. Not all mounts fail at the same time, so you might only need one or two replaced. However, if one has failed, the others have been absorbing extra stress and may not be far behind. A technician can inspect all the mounts and let you know which ones need replacement.

Some vehicles are notorious for motor mount failures. Honda Accords, Toyota Camrys, Nissan Altimas, and many four-cylinder vehicles with hydraulic mounts tend to develop mount issues in the 80,000 to 120,000-mile range. The hydraulic fluid inside the mount leaks out over time, reducing the mount's ability to dampen vibration.

### Vacuum Leak

A vacuum leak occurs when air enters the engine's intake system through a crack, loose fitting, or deteriorated gasket rather than through the throttle body where it is supposed to. This unmetered air throws off the engine's air-fuel mixture, causing a rough or unstable idle that you feel as vibration.

Vacuum leaks can come from cracked or disconnected vacuum hoses, a leaking intake manifold gasket, a failing PCV valve, a cracked throttle body gasket, or worn or dry-rotted rubber connectors. The leak often produces a hissing sound under the hood, though it can be difficult to hear over the engine noise.

Cost to fix: $100 to $300 in most cases. Finding the leak is often the hardest part — the repair itself might be as simple as replacing a $5 vacuum hose or tightening a clamp. A smoke test, where a technician introduces smoke into the intake system and watches for it escaping, is the most reliable way to locate a vacuum leak. At AutoBlast, we use smoke testing and other diagnostic methods to pinpoint leaks quickly.

## Constant Vibration (All Speeds, All Conditions)

If the vibration is present all the time — not just at certain speeds or during certain actions — the problem is typically a worn suspension or steering component that affects the wheel's ability to spin smoothly under all conditions.

### Worn Wheel Bearing

Wheel bearings allow the wheel hub to spin freely on the axle with minimal friction. They are sealed, lubricated assemblies designed to last a long time, but they do eventually wear out. A worn wheel bearing creates a constant vibration that gets louder with speed and may change tone or intensity when you turn (loading or unloading the bearing).

The classic symptom of a bad wheel bearing is a humming, growling, or roaring noise that increases with vehicle speed and sounds like it is coming from one corner of the vehicle. The noise and vibration may get louder when turning in one direction (toward the bad bearing) and quieter when turning the other way. This is because turning shifts the vehicle's weight and changes the load on the bearing.

Cost to fix: $200 to $500 per wheel including parts and labor. Some vehicles use a pressed-in bearing that requires special tools and more labor, which pushes the cost toward the higher end. Others use a bolt-on hub assembly that is more straightforward to replace. Luxury and AWD vehicles tend to cost more because of the part price and the complexity of the hub assembly.

Do not ignore a bad wheel bearing. A wheel bearing that fails completely can cause the wheel to lock up or even separate from the vehicle. If you hear a constant humming or growling that changes with speed, get it inspected promptly.

### Worn Tie Rods

Tie rods are part of the steering linkage that connects the steering rack to the steering knuckles on each front wheel. They translate the turning motion of the steering wheel into the turning motion of the front wheels. Each tie rod has a ball joint at the end (the tie rod end) that allows it to pivot as the suspension moves.

When a tie rod end wears out, the ball joint develops play — meaning the connection between the steering system and the wheel is no longer tight and precise. This loose connection allows the wheel to wobble or shimmy, which you feel as vibration in the steering wheel. The vibration may be constant or it may be more noticeable during turns and at certain speeds.

Other symptoms of worn tie rods include a clunking or knocking sound when turning, vague or imprecise steering feel, uneven tire wear on the inner or outer edge, and the steering wheel being off-center when driving straight.

Cost to fix: $150 to $400 per side including the tie rod end, labor, and a wheel alignment (which is mandatory after tie rod replacement). Inner tie rods are more expensive to replace than outer tie rod ends because they are harder to access. An alignment runs an additional $75 to $120 if not bundled with the repair.

### Worn Ball Joints or Control Arm Bushings

Ball joints connect the control arms to the steering knuckles, allowing the wheels to move up and down with the suspension while also pivoting left and right for steering. Control arm bushings are the rubber mounts that attach the control arms to the vehicle frame, absorbing road impacts and keeping everything aligned.

When these components wear out, they introduce play and looseness into the front suspension. This looseness allows the wheels to move in ways they are not supposed to, which creates vibration, wandering, and instability — especially over rough roads or at highway speed.

Cost to fix: $200 to $600 per side for ball joint or control arm replacement. Many modern vehicles use a control arm assembly with the ball joint and bushings integrated, so the entire arm is replaced as a unit. This is actually more cost-effective than trying to press out and replace individual components.

## Is It Safe to Drive with a Shaking Steering Wheel?

This depends entirely on the cause, and the difference between the answers is significant.

Probably safe to drive (but schedule service soon):

Unbalanced tires cause vibration but do not affect your ability to control the vehicle. You can drive to the shop without worry. However, prolonged driving on unbalanced tires accelerates tire wear and puts extra stress on steering and suspension components, so do not ignore it indefinitely.

Worn motor mounts cause annoying vibration but do not create an immediate safety hazard in most cases. Schedule a repair within a few weeks.

A minor vacuum leak that only causes rough idle is not dangerous to drive with, though it may affect fuel economy and should be addressed.

Drive carefully and get it fixed soon:

Mildly warped rotors reduce your braking performance but you can still stop the vehicle. Avoid aggressive driving and hard braking, and schedule brake service within the week.

A worn wheel bearing that is making noise but has not progressed to severe grinding or looseness can usually make it to the shop safely. Do not take long highway trips until it is fixed.

Worn tie rods or ball joints with minor play reduce your steering precision but the vehicle is still controllable. Get it inspected within a few days.

Stop driving and get it towed or inspected immediately:

Severe brake vibration or grinding means your braking system is compromised. You may not be able to stop effectively in an emergency. Do not drive further than you have to.

A severely worn wheel bearing that is grinding or has noticeable play in the wheel is at risk of catastrophic failure. The wheel could lock up or separate. Tow the vehicle.

A bulging tire or severely bent rim is a blowout risk at any speed. Replace the tire before driving on it.

A badly worn ball joint can separate entirely, which causes the wheel to collapse. If a technician tells you a ball joint is severely worn, do not drive the vehicle until it is replaced.

When in doubt, call AutoBlast at (856) 546-8880 and describe the vibration — when it happens, what it feels like, any noises — and we will tell you whether it is safe to drive in or whether you need a tow.

## The New Jersey Pothole Connection

If you drive in New Jersey, you already know about the potholes. What you might not know is how directly potholes cause steering wheel vibration. After every winter, our shop sees a surge in vibration complaints, and potholes are the common denominator.

Here is what a pothole impact can do to your vehicle:

Bend a rim. This is the most common pothole injury. Even a moderate pothole hit at 30 to 40 mph can bend an alloy wheel enough to cause vibration. Steel wheels are more resilient but can still bend from a hard hit. The bend might be invisible to the naked eye but shows up immediately as a shimmy in the steering wheel.

Throw off tire balance. A pothole impact can knock a wheel weight loose, and a single missing wheel weight is enough to cause vibration at highway speed. It can also shift the tire on the rim slightly, changing the balance point.

Damage tires. A hard pothole hit can cause a sidewall bulge, internal belt separation, or a pinch flat. Any of these create vibration and, in the case of a bulge or separation, a blowout risk.

Knock the alignment out. Potholes are one of the top causes of alignment problems in New Jersey. A misaligned vehicle pulls to one side, wears tires unevenly, and can contribute to vibration. A standard wheel alignment costs $75 to $120 and should be checked after any significant pothole hit.

Damage suspension components. A severe pothole impact can crack a control arm, damage a strut, bend a tie rod, or accelerate wear on ball joints and bushings. These damaged components create play and looseness that leads to vibration.

Damage CV boots. The rubber CV boots that protect the axle joints are vulnerable to road debris and impacts. A torn CV boot leads to a failing CV joint within months.

The stretches of Route 130, Route 30, I-676, I-295, and many local roads in Camden County are notorious for potholes, especially in late winter and early spring. If your steering wheel started shaking after hitting a pothole — even if it was days or weeks later — the pothole is the likely cause. Bring the vehicle in for an inspection so we can check the rims, tires, alignment, and suspension components.

New Jersey drivers can also file damage claims with the state or municipality for pothole damage. Keep a record of where the pothole is located, take photos if possible, and save your repair receipts. It does not always result in reimbursement, but it is worth submitting.

## How AutoBlast Diagnoses Steering Wheel Vibration

When you bring a vibrating vehicle to AutoBlast, we follow a systematic diagnostic process to identify the exact cause — not guess at it. Here is how we approach it:

Step 1: Listen to your description. When the vibration happens is the single most important diagnostic clue. We ask detailed questions: at what speed does it start? Does it happen during braking? Does it change when turning? Is it there at idle? Is it constant or intermittent? Did it start after hitting a pothole? Your answers point us toward the right system before we even look at the vehicle.

Step 2: Road test. We drive the vehicle to experience the vibration firsthand. This tells us the speed range, the conditions that trigger it, the intensity, and whether the vibration is coming from the steering system, the brakes, or the drivetrain. A road test also reveals noises (humming, grinding, clicking) that point to specific components.

Step 3: Visual and hands-on inspection. We inspect tires for damage, uneven wear, and bulges. We check rims for bends and cracks. We grab each front wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and check for play — looseness at 12 and 6 usually indicates a worn ball joint, while looseness at 3 and 9 points to a tie rod end. We inspect brake components for wear, warping, and caliper function. We check motor mounts for cracks and excessive movement.

Step 4: Machine diagnosis when needed. We put the wheels on the balancing machine to check balance and rim straightness. If brake vibration is suspected, we measure rotor thickness and runout with a dial indicator. For engine-related vibrations, we scan for diagnostic codes and perform tests specific to the suspected cause.

Step 5: Clear explanation and options. We tell you exactly what we found, what it means in plain language, how urgent it is, and what it costs to fix. No jargon, no scare tactics, no upselling. Just an honest assessment and a clear recommendation.

The entire diagnostic process typically takes 30 to 60 minutes. For straightforward issues like tire balance or obvious rim damage, it is often even faster. We charge a diagnostic fee that is applied toward the repair if you choose to have us do the work.

## Steering Wheel Vibration Repair Near Audubon, NJ

AutoBlast is a full-service auto repair shop at 21 S. White Horse Pike in Audubon, NJ. Whether your steering wheel is shaking on the highway, pulsating when you brake, or vibrating at idle, our experienced technicians will diagnose the cause and get it fixed right. We work on all makes and models and serve drivers across Camden County including Haddonfield, Cherry Hill, Collingswood, Oaklyn, Mt. Ephraim, Westmont, Barrington, Magnolia, Bellmawr, and all surrounding communities.

Do not wait for a vibration to turn into a bigger problem. Call us at (856) 546-8880 or stop by today.

## Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my steering wheel shake at 60 mph?

The most common cause of steering wheel vibration at 60 mph is unbalanced tires. At highway speed, even a small imbalance creates noticeable shaking. Tire balancing costs $40 to $80 for all four wheels and solves the problem in most cases. If balancing does not fix it, the next most likely causes are a bent rim or a tire with internal damage.

Why does my steering wheel shake when I brake?

Warped brake rotors are the number one cause of steering wheel vibration during braking. The warped surface causes the brake pad to push unevenly against the rotor, creating a pulsation you feel through the steering wheel. Replacing the rotors and pads costs $200 to $500 per axle and completely eliminates the vibration.

Is it safe to drive with a shaking steering wheel?

It depends on the cause. Unbalanced tires cause vibration but are not immediately dangerous — you can drive to the shop safely. Brake-related vibration means reduced stopping ability, so avoid hard braking and get it serviced soon. A grinding wheel bearing or a bulging tire should not be driven on at all. When in doubt, call a shop and describe the symptoms before driving.

Can a bad alignment cause steering wheel vibration?

A misalignment alone usually causes the vehicle to pull to one side and causes uneven tire wear, but it does not typically cause the steering wheel to shake or vibrate. However, the same pothole that knocked the alignment out may have also bent a rim or damaged a tire — and those will cause vibration. If you hit a pothole and now have both a pull and a vibration, you likely need an alignment plus a rim or tire repair.

How much does it cost to fix a shaking steering wheel?

The cost ranges widely depending on the cause. Tire balancing is $40 to $80. A bent rim repair runs $100 to $400. Brake rotor and pad replacement costs $200 to $500 per axle. Wheel bearing replacement runs $200 to $500 per wheel. Motor mount replacement costs $200 to $600 per mount. A diagnostic inspection at a shop like AutoBlast will identify the specific cause so you know exactly what you are dealing with before spending money on repairs.

Why does my car vibrate when idle but not when driving?

Vibration only at idle typically points to an engine-related issue rather than a wheel or brake problem. The most common causes are worn motor mounts, engine misfire (often from bad spark plugs or ignition coils), or a vacuum leak. Motor mounts are the most frequent culprit — they wear out over time and stop absorbing the engine's natural vibration. A diagnostic scan and visual inspection can usually identify the exact cause quickly.

Do I need new tires if my steering wheel shakes?

Not necessarily. The most common cause of highway-speed vibration is unbalanced tires, which just needs balancing — not new tires. However, if the tire has a bulge, flat spot, or separated belt, it does need to be replaced. A tire inspection will determine whether the existing tires can be balanced and kept or whether replacement is needed.

How do I know if my motor mounts are bad?

Common signs of worn motor mounts include vibration that is worse at idle and improves when driving, excessive engine movement visible under the hood when the engine is revved, a thunk or clunk when shifting from park to drive or reverse, vibration that increases when the AC is turned on, and overall roughness that was not there when the vehicle was newer. A technician can visually inspect the mounts and check for cracks, separation, or fluid leaks in hydraulic mounts.

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