A dead battery always happens at the worst time — in the parking lot at Wawa, in your driveway on a 20-degree January morning, at the end of a long workday when you just want to get home. The first question after you hear that click-click-silence is always the same: how much is this going to cost?
The short answer: car battery replacement cost is usually $150 to $650 installed in 2026 for most Camden County drivers. A standard flooded lead-acid battery on an older sedan can land around $150 to $220 installed. AGM batteries for newer vehicles with stop-start systems usually run $220 to $400 installed. Luxury vehicles that need a premium AGM battery plus battery management system registration can run $350 to $650 installed.
If the car is slow to crank, needs repeated jump starts, shows a battery light, or is more than 4 years into the same battery, do not shop by battery price alone. The real question is whether the battery failed by age, because the alternator is not charging, because there is a parasitic draw, or because the wrong battery type was installed last time. AutoBlast in Audubon tests the battery and charging system before replacing anything, then can handle most same-day battery replacements while you wait. Call (856) 546-8880 for a same-day battery test or replacement quote before you buy the wrong battery.
This guide breaks down every factor that drives battery replacement cost so you can walk into any shop informed, know when you are being overcharged, and make the right call on battery type, testing, and where to buy.
Quick Cost Table for Camden County Drivers
Use this as a practical local price check before you call a shop. Exact pricing depends on your vehicle, battery group size, cold cranking amps, and whether BMS coding is required.
| Vehicle or service need | Typical 2026 installed cost | What the price should include |
|---|---|---|
| Older compact or sedan, standard flooded battery | $150 to $220 | Battery, basic install, terminal check, old battery recycling |
| Small SUV or newer sedan, EFB or standard AGM | $200 to $350 | Correct group size, CCA match, charging-system test |
| Truck or full-size SUV, higher-CCA AGM | $250 to $425 | Higher-capacity battery, hold-down inspection, alternator output check |
| European or luxury vehicle with BMS registration | $350 to $650 | Premium AGM, scan-tool registration, reset/verification |
| Battery and charging-system test only | Usually free at AutoBlast | Battery health, state of charge, alternator output, terminal/cable inspection |
| Electrical diagnostic if the new battery keeps dying | Quote after test | Parasitic draw, bad alternator, corroded ground, wrong battery coding |
Need it handled today? Call AutoBlast at (856) 546-8880 or stop by our electrical systems service counter at 21 S. White Horse Pike in Audubon. We serve Audubon, Haddonfield, Cherry Hill, Collingswood, Oaklyn, Mt. Ephraim, Bellmawr, Barrington, Haddon Heights, Gloucester City, and the rest of Camden County.
Same-Day Battery Testing and Replacement in Audubon
For a driver searching from Audubon, Haddonfield, Collingswood, Cherry Hill, Oaklyn, or Bellmawr, the fastest next step is not guessing the battery type online. Bring the vehicle to AutoBlast or call ahead with the year, make, model, engine, and whether it has stop-start. We can tell you whether the car likely needs flooded, EFB, AGM, premium AGM, or BMS registration before the hood is open.
Same-day battery service at AutoBlast is built around two decisions: does the battery fail under load, and is the charging system healthy enough to protect the replacement? If both checks are clear and the right battery is in stock, most replacements are handled while you wait. If the test points to an alternator, cable, terminal, or draw issue, we explain that first so you do not pay for a battery that dies again.
Car Battery Replacement By The Numbers
Average car battery lasts 3 to 5 years. AAA data from annual battery studies consistently finds that the average conventional flooded lead-acid battery lasts 3 to 5 years, with hot climates shortening lifespan and cold NJ winters stressing weak batteries into failure. Source: AAA — Keep Your Car Battery Alive.
AGM batteries last 5 to 7 years on average. The Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries required for most vehicles built after 2014 with stop-start technology last significantly longer than conventional flooded batteries under the same conditions. Source: Consumer Reports Battery Buying Guide.
Cold weather reduces battery capacity by up to 35 percent. According to the BCI (Battery Council International), a fully charged battery delivers only about 65 percent of its rated cranking power at 32°F and less than 50 percent at 0°F. This is why NJ winters expose weak batteries that ran fine in summer. Source: Battery Council International — How Temperature Affects Batteries.
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is the single biggest spec to match. The federal SAE J537 standard defines CCA as the current a battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 0°F while maintaining at least 7.2 volts. Match or exceed your vehicle's CCA spec — under-spec batteries cause winter no-starts. Source: SAE J537 Standard — Battery Test Procedures.
NJ uses three main battery group sizes. Most sedans and compact cars in NJ use BCI Group 35, 24F, 48, or 51R. SUVs and trucks typically use Group 65 or 94R. BMW, Mercedes, and Audi commonly use Group H7 or H8 AGM batteries. Group size determines physical fit — the wrong group will not secure properly. Source: BCI Battery Group Size Standards.
Alternator testing is included in professional battery service. A failed alternator kills new batteries within weeks because the battery never gets properly recharged during driving. Every legitimate battery replacement includes alternator output testing — typically checking for 13.8 to 14.7 volts at the battery terminals with the engine running. Source: NAPA Auto Care — Charging System Diagnostic.
Battery recycling is federally mandated. Under the Universal Waste Rule (40 CFR Part 273), lead-acid batteries must be recycled — not thrown away — at every shop and parts store in the United States. Most shops charge a small core fee on the new battery, refunded when you return the old one. Source: EPA Universal Waste Rule.
Car Battery Replacement Cost by Battery Type
Battery chemistry is the single biggest driver of price. Installing the wrong type in a modern vehicle can damage the battery within weeks, so it is critical to match what your vehicle needs.
Standard flooded (lead-acid): $100 to $200 installed. This is the traditional car battery — the one most drivers grew up with. It works fine for older vehicles (generally pre-2014) without stop-start technology or significant electrical load. Flooded batteries are the cheapest option but have the shortest lifespan, typically 3 to 5 years in NJ weather conditions.
EFB (Enhanced Flooded Battery): $150 to $275 installed. EFBs are an improved version of the standard flooded battery designed for modern vehicles with mild stop-start systems. They handle more charge cycles than standard flooded batteries and are common in entry-level European vehicles and some domestic SUVs.
AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat): $200 to $400 installed. AGM is the standard for most vehicles built after 2014 with stop-start technology, heated seats, infotainment systems, and auxiliary power outlets. The electrolyte is absorbed into a fiberglass mat rather than sitting as free liquid, which makes the battery spill-proof, vibration-resistant, and capable of many more charge cycles. AGM batteries typically last 5 to 7 years.
Premium AGM (high-CCA): $350 to $550 installed. These are heavier-duty AGM batteries for vehicles with large electrical demands — luxury sedans with full infotainment, large SUVs, trucks with heavy accessory loads, and performance vehicles. BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Audi, and Land Rover often require specific premium AGM batteries.
Lithium-ion (LiFePO4): $600 to $1,500 installed. Still rare in standard passenger vehicles but becoming more common in high-end sports cars, motorcycles, and aftermarket upgrades. Lithium batteries are dramatically lighter and last significantly longer but are priced accordingly.
For most local drivers, the best value is not the cheapest battery on the shelf. It is the correct battery type, correct group size, correct CCA rating, proper terminal cleaning, and a quick charging-system test so the new battery does not come back dead in a month.
What Drives the Price Beyond Battery Chemistry
Three factors beyond chemistry change what you pay at the counter.
Cold cranking amps (CCA). CCA is the measure of a battery's ability to start your engine in cold weather — specifically, the amps it can deliver for 30 seconds at 0°F while maintaining at least 7.2 volts. Your vehicle has a minimum CCA requirement. Buying a battery with higher CCA than spec costs more but gives you more reliable cold starts through NJ winters. Buying below spec saves money upfront but risks no-starts on the coldest mornings.
Group size. Batteries come in standardized group sizes (Group 24, 34, 35, 48, 49, 51R, 65, etc.) that determine physical dimensions and terminal location. Your vehicle fits one specific group size. Rare or specialty group sizes cost more than common ones — a Group 35 for a Honda Civic is one of the cheapest batteries on the market; a Group H8 for a BMW X5 is one of the most expensive.
Warranty length. Warranties range from 1 year free-replacement to 4+ years free-replacement with additional prorated periods. Longer warranty = higher price, but for NJ drivers who see meaningful battery wear every winter, a 3-year free-replacement warranty often pays for itself once.
Where to Buy: Auto Parts Store vs Shop vs Dealer
Where you buy affects both the upfront price and the total cost of ownership.
Auto parts stores (AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA, Pep Boys) are the cheapest upfront. They sell batteries at retail with no labor markup, and most will install a standard battery for free if you buy from them. Standard batteries start around $100, AGM around $180. The downside: their installers are not technicians. They will not test your alternator, charging system, or parasitic drain. If your old battery died because of an underlying electrical issue, the new battery will die the same way.
Independent shops like AutoBlast charge slightly more upfront but include diagnosis of what actually killed your old battery. A proper battery replacement at a shop includes testing the alternator output (is it charging correctly?), checking for parasitic draw (is something pulling current when the vehicle is off?), inspecting the battery cables and terminals for corrosion or damage, verifying the ground connection, and properly coding the new battery to the vehicle's battery management system on modern cars that require it.
For most drivers, the independent shop is the right answer. You pay $30 to $75 more than an auto parts store install, but you get actual diagnostics. If there is an underlying issue, catching it with the new battery saves you from killing the new one in three months.
Dealerships are the most expensive — typically $75 to $200 more than an independent shop for the same battery. The upside is that they use OEM batteries and factory programming tools. The downside is the premium is mostly paying for overhead, not additional quality.
Mobile battery services (some auto parts stores and apps like Battery Guys) come to you. They charge a premium for the convenience — typically $50 to $100 above retail — but diagnosis is still limited compared to a full shop.
Why Modern Cars Need Battery Coding (and Why It Affects Cost)
Most vehicles built after 2010 have a battery management system (BMS) that monitors the battery's state of charge, temperature, and health. When you replace the battery, the BMS needs to be told — a process called battery registration or coding.
Without proper coding, the BMS continues to treat the new battery as if it were the old, aging one. The charging system under-charges it (to protect what the computer thinks is an old battery), which shortens the new battery's life dramatically. Some vehicles will not even start certain accessories until the battery is coded.
Coding requires a diagnostic scan tool — typically $2,000 to $15,000 worth of equipment. This is why DIY battery replacement on a BMW, Mercedes, Audi, or any VW Group vehicle often fails: the driver installs the battery correctly but skips the coding step, and the battery dies within a year.
AutoBlast has the scan tools to code batteries on BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Volkswagen, Volvo, and most modern Japanese and domestic vehicles with battery management systems. We code the new battery as part of every replacement on vehicles that require it. If your vehicle requires coding and you are shopping shops, ask specifically whether they perform BMS registration — the answer tells you a lot about the shop.
How Long Car Batteries Last (and Why NJ Is Harder on Them)
A typical car battery lasts 3 to 5 years, with AGM batteries hitting the higher end of that range and flooded batteries at the lower end. In New Jersey, both ends get compressed.
Winter kills weak batteries. A battery's capacity drops about 20 percent at 32°F and 50 percent at 0°F. Camden County routinely sees multi-day stretches below 20°F in January and February. A battery that barely cranked your engine in October will not start it in January. This is why most batteries die in winter — not because the cold itself killed them, but because the cold exposed the weakness that was already there.
Summer ages batteries. Heat is actually harder on battery life than cold. Every 15°F above 77°F roughly halves battery lifespan. A 95°F August in South Jersey with high humidity is brutal on battery chemistry. Vehicles parked outside in direct sun all summer — in apartment lots, on street parking, or in office lots — age their batteries faster than garage-kept vehicles.
Stop-and-go traffic hurts. The I-76 / Route 42 / Ben Franklin Bridge commute means your alternator is barely recharging the battery during idle periods while the stop-start system cycles the battery constantly. Short trips under 20 minutes do not fully recharge the battery, which over months causes sulfation and capacity loss.
Realistic battery life expectations in NJ: 3 to 4 years for standard flooded, 4 to 6 years for AGM, 5 to 7 years for premium AGM. If your battery is in year 4 and you live in Camden County, start watching for warning signs.
Warning Signs Your Battery Is Dying
Batteries rarely die without warning. Here is what to watch for:
Slow engine crank. The most common early warning sign. If the starter sounds sluggish, labored, or noticeably slower than it used to, the battery is losing capacity. This is most obvious first thing in the morning or after the vehicle has sat for a day.
Dim headlights at idle. If your headlights are noticeably brighter when revving the engine than at idle, the battery is weak and the alternator is compensating. On a healthy system, you should not notice a difference.
Battery warning light. Modern vehicles monitor battery voltage and flash a warning when it drops below normal. Do not ignore this light. A jump start may get you going, but the underlying problem — dying battery, failing alternator, or both — needs diagnosis.
Corrosion on battery terminals. White, blue, or green crust on the positive or negative terminal is a sign of acid leaking from the battery. This accelerates as the battery ages. Cleaning the terminals may temporarily restore function, but a battery that is leaking is approaching the end of its life.
Swollen battery case. If the battery case looks bulged, warped, or cracked, replace it immediately. Heat or overcharging can physically deform the case. A swollen battery can leak or, in rare cases, rupture — and the hydrogen gas inside is flammable.
Electronics acting weird. Flickering dashboard lights, infotainment system rebooting, power windows operating slowly, or the radio losing presets after the vehicle sits overnight all point to low battery voltage.
Age. If your battery is 4+ years old, do not wait for it to fail. A proactive replacement during shop hours on a 50°F spring day is always cheaper and less stressful than an emergency replacement on a 20°F February morning in a dark parking lot.
If you have two or more of these symptoms at once, treat it as a failure pattern, not a random inconvenience. Slow cranking plus a battery light often points to a charging-system problem. Repeated jump starts after the vehicle sits overnight can point to a parasitic draw. A battery warning light after a recent replacement can mean the vehicle needed BMS registration or the alternator is not charging correctly.
Battery Test vs Battery Replacement: What Should Happen First
A proper shop should test before replacing. A battery can be dead because it is old, but it can also be dead because something else in the electrical system is failing.
Battery health test. This checks the battery's actual cold cranking amps against the rating on the label. A battery can show 12 volts and still fail under load because it cannot deliver enough cranking power.
Alternator output test. With the engine running, the charging system should typically show about 13.8 to 14.7 volts at the battery terminals. If the alternator is weak, a new battery will keep dying because the vehicle never recharges it properly.
Terminal and cable inspection. Corrosion, loose terminals, damaged clamps, and bad grounds can mimic a bad battery. Cleaning terminals and tightening connections is part of a professional replacement.
Parasitic draw check when needed. If the battery keeps dying overnight or after sitting for a few days, something may be pulling power while the car is off. Common causes include stuck relays, aftermarket radios, alarms, dash cams, trunk lights, glovebox lights, and module sleep issues.
BMS registration check. If your vehicle requires battery registration, the shop should code the new battery to the car. Skipping this step can shorten the life of the replacement battery, especially on BMW, Mercedes, Audi, VW, Volvo, and many newer domestic and Japanese vehicles.
At AutoBlast, battery replacement is tied to electrical system diagnostics, not just parts swapping. That matters if you are already dealing with repeated jump starts, warning lights, or a battery that was recently replaced somewhere else.
Our Audubon diagnostic flow checks battery state of charge, measured cold-cranking performance, alternator output, cable and terminal condition, ground integrity, and whether the vehicle stores charging-system or low-voltage codes. That is the difference between replacing a bad battery and solving the no-start problem.
Battery Warranties: What Actually Matters
Every battery comes with a warranty, but warranties are structured in ways that can mislead shoppers.
Free-replacement period. This is the period during which a defective battery is replaced at no cost. A 3-year free-replacement warranty is significantly better than a 1-year free-replacement warranty. This is the most important warranty number.
Prorated period. After the free-replacement period ends, many warranties enter a prorated phase where you get a partial credit toward a new battery based on how many months of life the failed battery got. Prorated periods sound generous but rarely amount to much — a 100-month total warranty with 36 months free-replacement and 64 months prorated typically gives you a 20 to 40 percent credit on a replacement if the battery fails at month 50.
Nationwide vs regional vs store-only. Some warranties only honor at the original purchase location. Others are nationwide across chain locations. For drivers who travel, a nationwide warranty is worth the small premium.
What voids warranties. Installing the battery in a vehicle it was not rated for, improper charging (like using an unregulated charger), physical damage, and failure to maintain proper fluid levels in a flooded battery can all void coverage. Keep your receipt.
AutoBlast battery warranty: We stand behind every battery we install with manufacturer warranty terms plus our own workmanship guarantee. If a battery we installed fails within the free-replacement period, we replace it at no cost. If a BMS-coded battery fails because of a coding issue on our end, we cover the diagnosis and replacement.
DIY Battery Replacement: When It Makes Sense (and When It Does Not)
Replacing a battery is mechanically simple on most vehicles — disconnect negative cable, disconnect positive cable, remove hold-down bracket, lift out old battery, install new battery, reverse the process. So why not DIY?
DIY is reasonable when: The vehicle is pre-2010 without a battery management system. The battery is in an accessible location (under the hood, not buried under seats or in the trunk). You have a memory saver or are willing to re-enter radio presets, seat positions, and window calibrations after disconnecting. The battery is a common size available at any auto parts store.
DIY is risky or not recommended when: The vehicle has a battery management system that requires coding (most post-2010 vehicles). The battery is in a difficult location — under a seat, inside a fender well, buried in the trunk. The vehicle has a start-stop system (AGM coding is almost always required). You do not have a memory saver and losing radio presets, window calibrations, transmission adaptation data, or sunroof calibration would be frustrating. The vehicle requires specialty tools for the battery hold-down or terminal disconnection.
Common DIY mistakes: Disconnecting the positive terminal first (should be negative first, then positive). Letting the terminals contact metal during the swap (can cause sparks and potentially ignite hydrogen gas from the battery). Installing the battery with reversed polarity (can destroy electronics). Skipping the BMS coding step on modern vehicles. Not cleaning corroded terminals before installing the new battery.
For vehicles requiring coding or with complicated battery access, the $30 to $75 premium for a professional install is cheap insurance against electronic damage that can cost thousands to repair.
Same-Day Battery Replacement at AutoBlast
AutoBlast stocks common battery sizes and can replace most batteries same-day during business hours. For rarer group sizes or specific luxury vehicle batteries, we can typically have the right unit within a few hours.
Every battery replacement includes: - Free battery and charging system test - Removal and environmentally-responsible recycling of the old battery - Terminal cleaning and anti-corrosion treatment - BMS coding on vehicles that require it (BMW, Mercedes, Audi, VW, Volvo, most 2015+ domestic and Japanese vehicles) - Full manufacturer warranty plus our workmanship guarantee - Verification that the underlying charging system is healthy (no point installing a new battery if the alternator is killing it)
If you are nearby and the vehicle still starts, drive over for a free test. If it will not start, call first so we can tell you whether a jump, tow, or same-day battery install makes the most sense. We are close to Haddonfield, Collingswood, Oaklyn, Mt. Ephraim, Bellmawr, Haddon Heights, Barrington, Cherry Hill, and Gloucester City.
Camden County Pricing: What You Should Actually Pay
For a typical Camden County vehicle in 2026, here is what fair pricing looks like:
- Honda Civic / Toyota Corolla / similar economy sedan: $150 to $220 for a quality flooded or EFB battery installed
- Ford F-150 / Chevy Silverado / Toyota 4Runner: $200 to $320 for AGM installed
- Honda CR-V / Toyota RAV4 / Ford Escape: $180 to $280 for AGM installed
- BMW / Mercedes / Audi sedan: $350 to $550 for AGM installed with coding
- BMW X5 / Mercedes GLE / large luxury SUV: $450 to $650 for premium AGM with coding
Above these ranges at an independent shop? Ask what you are paying for. Dealership pricing can run 30 to 50 percent above independent shop pricing for the same parts — most of that is overhead, not quality.
Below these ranges? Verify you are getting the correct battery type (flooded vs AGM) and that any required coding is being performed. Cheap batteries in vehicles that require AGM will die fast.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to replace a car battery in 2026?
Installed, expect $150 to $250 for a standard flooded battery on an older vehicle, $200 to $400 for AGM on most modern vehicles with stop-start technology, and $400 to $550 for premium AGM on luxury vehicles. Call AutoBlast at (856) 546-8880 for pricing on your specific vehicle.
How long should a car battery last?
In NJ weather, expect 3 to 5 years for a standard flooded battery and 5 to 7 years for AGM. Extreme heat and extreme cold both shorten battery life. If your battery is past year 4, watch for warning signs — slow cranking, dim headlights at idle, dashboard battery warning light.
Can I replace my car battery myself?
On older vehicles (pre-2010) without a battery management system, yes — if you are comfortable with the procedure and have a memory saver to preserve electronic settings. On most modern vehicles, the new battery needs to be coded to the vehicle's BMS, which requires a diagnostic scan tool most DIYers do not have. Failing to code a battery that requires it dramatically shortens battery life and can cause other electrical issues.
Do I need an AGM battery or will a standard battery work?
Check your owner's manual or the label on the old battery. Vehicles with stop-start technology, heated seats, cooled seats, large infotainment systems, or premium audio systems almost always require AGM. Installing a standard flooded battery in an AGM-required vehicle will cause the new battery to fail within 1 to 2 years.
How do I know if it is my battery or my alternator?
A quick test: jump start the vehicle and drive it for 20 to 30 minutes. If it starts normally after shutting off and restarting, the battery is likely the problem. If it dies again after being off for a short period, the alternator is probably not charging properly. A shop can test both definitively in 10 minutes with a load tester.
Why does my new battery keep dying?
Most common causes: the alternator is not charging properly, there is a parasitic drain (something pulling current when the vehicle is off), the battery was not coded to the BMS on a vehicle that requires it, or the battery was the wrong type (standard flooded in an AGM-required vehicle). A proper shop diagnostic catches all of these.
Does driving short trips kill batteries?
Yes. Trips under 20 minutes do not give the alternator enough time to fully recharge the battery after starting. Over months of short trips, the battery runs at a chronically low state of charge, which causes sulfation and permanent capacity loss. If short trips are your normal pattern, consider using a trickle charger occasionally or taking a longer drive once a week.
How much does a battery test cost?
Most shops, including AutoBlast, offer free battery testing. The test takes about 10 minutes and measures CCA output, state of charge, and overall health. It is a good idea to test your battery once a year in fall before winter hits.
Can a dead battery be recharged?
A battery that has been deeply discharged can sometimes be recharged with a proper battery charger if the cells are still functional. However, deep discharges cause sulfation that permanently reduces capacity. A battery that has been jumped several times or sat dead for weeks may start and seem fine but will typically fail completely within months.
What is the best battery brand?
For most drivers, quality battery brands include Interstate, Optima, Bosch, ACDelco, and Duralast Gold. Higher-end options include Odyssey and premium AGM lines from Exide and Deka. The 'best' brand depends more on the group size, CCA rating, and warranty matching your vehicle's needs than on brand name alone.
Does Costco or Sam's Club sell cheaper batteries?
Costco sells Interstate-branded batteries (Kirkland Signature) at competitive prices. The downside: Costco batteries are membership-only, and the installation service is limited — they do not perform BMS coding, alternator testing, or parasitic draw diagnosis. For older vehicles with simple battery requirements, Costco is a reasonable value. For modern vehicles requiring coding, a proper shop is the better choice.
What do I do with my old battery?
Do not throw it in the trash — lead-acid batteries are hazardous waste and illegal to dispose of in regular garbage in New Jersey. Any shop that sells batteries will accept old batteries for recycling, usually for free (sometimes with a small core charge that is refunded). AutoBlast recycles every old battery we remove at no cost to the customer.
Battery Replacement Near Audubon, NJ
AutoBlast provides same-day battery replacement for all makes and models. We stock common group sizes and can source specialty batteries quickly. Every replacement includes free charging system testing, BMS coding where required, and proper old battery recycling.
We are located at 21 S. White Horse Pike in Audubon, NJ, and serve drivers across Camden County including Haddonfield, Cherry Hill, Collingswood, Oaklyn, Mt. Ephraim, Westmont, Barrington, Magnolia, Bellmawr, Gloucester Township, Haddon Heights, Lawnside, Runnemede, and all surrounding communities.
If your vehicle is cranking slowly, the battery light is on, or you just want a free battery test before winter hits, call us at (856) 546-8880 or stop by. No appointment needed for most battery service — most replacements are done same-day while you wait.
Helpful local service pages: - Electrical Systems Service in Audubon, NJ - Engine Diagnostics in Audubon, NJ - Auto Repair Services in Audubon, NJ - AutoBlast Location in Audubon, NJ - Camden County Auto Repair Service Area
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